There’s something deeply comforting about a slow journey through North Wales. The kind where the landscape changes gently outside your window and you feel yourself easing into a different rhythm of life. I can't count the number of times I've visited North Wales from Coventry since my amazing cousin moved there with her family from Istanbul, Turkiye. I would be surprised if the staff at Transport for Wales stationed at Chester station can't tell the colour of my daughter's stroller.
So on this faithful day, I had woken up with enthusiasm to visit any Welsh town for a traditional Welsh afternoon tea. After a quick google search, unsurprisingly, the small historic town of Llanrwst popped on my feed, so I set out from Penmaenmawr, travelling first by train and then by bus, winding my way through the Conwy Valley towards Llanrwst. It wasn’t just about getting somewhere. It was about arriving somewhere that felt like a story waiting to be told.
Arriving Llanrwst took quite a bit of adventure as exploring North Wales by public transport can be a bit of a daunting task. However, I couldn't fault my exploration much because Llanrwst is one of those Welsh towns that feels quietly timeless. Nestled in the Conwy Valley, it carries centuries of history in its stone bridges, narrow streets, and riverside views. But I must still declare that the journey itself, switching from train to bus made the arrival feel even more rewarding. It wouldn't have been an easier journey for people who easily get frustrated when trips don't go as planned as I went past Llanrwst train station to Betws-Y-Coed train station. I am glad I did because I discovered a conserved art gallery at Betws-Y-Coed train station. From Betws-Y-Coed, I boarded a bus to Llanrwst, to eventually alight at a bus stop few steps away from my destination. Each stop brought me deeper into the countryside, further from the rush of everyday life. But the true highlight of the day was waiting just beside the river as soon as I walked down the bridge with moving vehicles carefully passed me.
My joy, Tu Hwnt i’r Bont is one of Llanrwst’s most enchanting landmarks, set dramatically beside the iconic stone bridge. This 15th-century, Grade II-listed building was originally constructed as a dwelling and later served as the Conwy Valley courtroom. Today, it has been lovingly transformed into a riverside tearoom, a place where history and hospitality meet in the most charming way. The building itself is unforgettable. Its exterior is completely wrapped in seasonal climbing foliage, giving it a fairytale-like appearance that changes throughout the year. In autumn it becomes a blaze of red and gold; in spring and summer, it softens into lush greens and floral tones. Standing outside feels like stepping into a postcard. Before you get too excited, I visited Tu Hwnt i’r Bont in late autumn, the leaves on the building has fallen heavily - hardly any blaze of red and gold. Just brown.
Inside, Tu Hwnt i’r Bont offers a warm, welcoming contrast to its dramatic exterior. The atmosphere is intimate and traditional, with the gentle hum of conversation and the comforting aroma of freshly baked treats. Truthfully, the interior wasn't fancy, but it was authentic, rustic and unforgettable.
I came specifically for their Welsh High tea, and I wasn't disappointed. The cover of the menu was brightly presented with English and Welsh translations. I immediately ordered for my Welsh High tea option without Champagne as soon as I was ushered to sit at my beautifully decorated corner table. The simple spread elevated by quality and care included:
- Bara brith — a rich, spiced Welsh tea bread soaked with fruit
- Welsh cakes — warm, lightly dusted with sugar, and perfectly soft inside
- Fresh scones served with local cream and jam
- A selection of delicately prepared sandwiches
For those wanting something a little more indulgent, there is also a champagne afternoon tea, adding a celebratory touch to the experience.
What made the experience truly special was the feeling of slowing down. Travelling from Penmaenmawr by public transport gave the day a sense of anticipation, a reminder that the journey itself can be part of the pleasure.
After I slowly enjoyed and finished my Welsh High Tea experience, I made my way outside and sat beside the river at Tu Hwnt i’r Bont. I loved it. Everything felt unhurried. The water, the bridge, the historic building wrapped in ivy. It all seemed to encourage stillness. But I had to make my way back to Penmaenmawr before nightfall so I don't miss my way again.
Tu Hwnt i’r Bont, to me, was more than a tearoom. It is a piece of Welsh heritage brought to life through food, setting, and story. Whether you’re travelling through North Wales or planning a dedicated day trip, Llanrwst offers something quietly unforgettable. And if you do go, arrive the way I did, slowly, by train and bus, so the experience begins long before you reach the table.
Because in places like this, even a simple cup of tea becomes something you remember for comfort.
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